Sunday, 1 September 2013

COTW #31 - Rebozo Carries

by Aline Kelly

Rebozo carries are among the oldest and simplest baby carries known to humans - they are a simple one-layer carry that pass over one shoulder, under the opposite arm, and tie in a knot in front. Used for front, hip, or back carries, you only need a short length of fabric, usually a size 2 if using a woven wrap. They are great for hot weather since not much fabric is needed, and are quick up and down carries for a busy toddler. 
 

More detailed information on rebozos:


Front and Hip Rebozo Carries:
The method for these is the same, what varies is where you situate your baby. 
- Front and Hip rebozo are pre-tied before you pop your baby in. 
- Drape your wrap across your back with one tail coming over your shoulder and one tail coming under your opposite arm. 
- Tie a slip knot in the corsage position under your shoulder (slipknot demo in video)
- Situate baby into the wrap either on your hip or on your front. Baby should be in an upright position (not a cradle position) and facing towards the parent. 
- Create a deep seat from knee to knee by tucking fabric between your bodies.
- Tighten at shoulder as necessary. Extra slack may need to be fed around your back to tighten further.
- Make sure all the fabric is spread evenly across your back and shoulder. 
Video:

Back Rebozo Carry:
- Get baby onto your back using your preferred method. Your wrap should be more or less centered on baby's back. 
- Secure your top rails and create a deep seat for baby from knee to knee. 
- Bring one tail over your shoulder, the other under your opposite arm. 
- Tie a square knot in front. Corsage position is ideal since a middle knot can dig into your sternum. 
- Make sure the fabric is spread evenly, especially over your shoulder. 
Video:


Chest belt variations for rebozo carries:

Monday, 26 August 2013

My Stash Monday: Faustina's Stash

I have a confession.  I advocate for babywearing, I teach baby wearing, I work at a baby wearing store, and I help parents find the right carrier for their needs, but I only have one baby carrier.  Just one.  I have had a total of 6 carriers in my 11 years of babywearing, but I've never used more than one at a time.  A few of the carriers were gifts, one was an emergency replacement for a sling that was lost, and one has been on loan for 2 years (I should just make it official and gift it to them).  But for the most part, I have used one carrier day in and day out for years at a time in all sorts of activities with babies ranging from infancy to preschool.

When we had our oldest, Rachel, 11 years ago, I knew that I wanted to baby wear but products were hard to find.  My mother-in-law bought us a Baby Bjorn at our request and we were very thankful.  It was way out of our price range. 


Rachel lived in the Bjorn for the first three months of her life, at which point I listened to my aching back and bought a ring sling for $20 that I found at a local farmers market.  It was made out of quilting cotton in a red and gold pattern with thick white plastic rings, and a box pleated shoulder.  I wore Rachel every single day in that thing until she was 2.5 years old and I was six months pregnant with her younger brother.  We took the bus, did groceries, went on an 8 hour plane trip with it, we went to play group and the library and for long walks.  It served as a sunshield, a play blanket, a changing pad, and a makeshift highchair seat.  It saw us through the excruciating depths of severe post-partum depression.  Even when I wasn't able to make eye contact with my baby, I was able to carry her in my arms and close to my heart every day, all day until I got help when she was 13 months old.  Some days, wearing her and nursing her was all I was able to do for her.

When Samuel was born, he went right into the same ring sling that had carried his older sister, after a lovely peaceful homebirth.  It took us to CHEO at 24 hours old, playgroup, shopping, he slept in the sling while I made crafts and cookies with Rachel.  A friend at playgroup once remarked that she had never actually seen him because even at 6 months old, he had always been asleep in the sling whenever we were there.  Carrying my baby in my trusty sling allowed me to focus on Rachel and keep our little home and family running smoothly.  Samuel was born in the depths of a very cold winter, so I bought a cheap men's down parka three sizes too big for me and it allowed me to keep Sam and I covered and warm while I took Rachel to the bus stop or outside to play.  This worked just as well the next two winters when Sam was 12 and 24 months.  It wasn't flattering, but I decided that warm was chic.  At some point, I forget when, I misplaced our red ring sling and quickly realized that I couldn't function without one.  By this time, baby carriers were easier to find and I knew that my local health food store carried a new local brand, Maman Kangarou, in their baby section.  I found a handsome sling in a grey and blue striped slightly gauzey fabric, for around $30.  Money was extremely tight, perhaps even more so than when our first was born, but I knew from experience that this was a very smart and worthwhile expense.  I think I skipped buying meat that month to compensate.  Of course, I found the red sling about a month later, but I preferred the fabric of the new one, so the red one became my backup and it stayed in the car.


I stopped carrying Sam in the sling sometime around his 3rd birthday.  Around that time we also discovered that I was suffering from secondary infertility and part of my coping mechanism was to get rid of a lot of baby things.  So, both slings went in the donation box at St. Vincent de Paul.  I could have sold them, but I wanted another mom to be able to access them at the lowest possible price.  I knew that they were both still in very good condition and would serve another family well, and I didn't need the $10 that they would have sold for.

When Samuel was about 4 years old, we were happy and surprised to be expecting another baby.  I had given away or sold my old slings, crib, stroller, change table, baby bath tub, carseat.  The only things I replaced were the sling and the carseat.  I bought a Maya Wrap Ring Sling. 

We welcomed Nicholas, all 5lbs of him, a wee bit early and at a time when Rachel was in school full days and Samuel was in half days, so I was at the bus stop in the winter with a low birth weight baby three times a day.  I just popped him in the sling, and put my rain or huge winter coat over top of him and off we went.  It was so easy.  A friend gave me a fleece pouch as a baby gift and it was very cozy, but didn't get used much as it was hard to adjust.  I gave it away recently. 

When Nicholas was a few months old, I realized that I wasn't in my early 20s anymore and that carrying him in a one-shouldered carry for more than an hour was starting to give me headaches.  Nothing else had changed.  I was using a ring sling just like I had with the other two, but it wasn't working as well this time.

So, I tried on all the soft structured carriers that were available in the city and decided on the Manduca because it was the most comfortable and fit my long, skinny four month old who couldn't yet open his hips enough to sit straddling me.  The infant insert in the Manduca was exactly what he needed, the zip out body accommodated his long infant torso, and the long waist and shoulder straps fit my 6 foot tall body the best. 

I bought the Manduca when Nicholas was about 4 months old and just 10lbs.  He is now a month away from his fourth birthday and 31lbs.  He hasn't asked to be carried in about two months and I think that our baby/toddler/preschooler wearing days are coming to an end.  In his first year, though, the Manduca was used probably 4-8 hours a day, and about 8-12 hours a week in the second and third years. He didn't nap anywhere else, ever.  We were a much busier family and I loved how quick and easy the Manduca was.  It was so easy to strap him on and do chores or the groceries, or pick up the big kids at the bus stop.  It took us on hikes at Mer Bleu, berry picking, apple picking, museums, camping, farmers markets, and Canada Day.  Nicholas always had the best seat in the house, and I always had two hands for the big kids or the activity.  The Manduca was always comfortable for me, and I never had to fiddle with it to get it just right.   Those first years with Nicholas were some of the most stressful in our marriage, for other reasons, and I needed to not have to think about unnecessary things too much.   When I had to leave my 12 month old with a caregiver for the first time, I was able to show her how to use it and she napped him in the carrier when I was gone.  It helped him feel secure and cared for regardless of who was carrying him.  



I am not someone who accessorizes very much.  I have a sort of 'uniform' that I wear most days (leggings, tunic, scarf, tall boots in winter, sandals in summer), I wear pretty much the same make-up everyday, and I am happiest when I have a schedule.  I like not having to think about too many things every day, and I like not having to make too many decisions.  I like when things run on their own, when they just work.  The Manduca, and the ring slings, filled a need in my parenting tool box and what worked best for our family was to not mess around with a good thing.  If it ain't broke, don't fix it. 

After I bought the Manduca, I stopped using the ring sling very much.  I loaned it to a friend when her third baby was born and she needed her hands free.  It's been at her house for almost two years, I think.  

So, while I have had more than one carrier, you can see that I never really used more than one at a time.  That was partly because of our budget and partly because of my personality.  We all parent differently, use different tools and prioritize different things.  This is a good thing.  It's fantastic that we have the freedom to do so, and that we have access to great products to help us in our parenting.  I made the best use of both my financial resources and personal resources, and I saw it as a good thing that I didn't have more at my disposal.  I have learned to embrace simplicity through my parenting, and to focus on the relationship.  I have learned to listen to the whispering in my ear, and to love someone else's drool dripping down my back.  At 11 and 8 years old, I can calm and center my older children by holding them next to my left hip which is where they spent their first two years.  When Nicholas wants a hug or a cuddle or to play, he jumps on my back, which is where he spent his first three years. 

So, yes, I have one carrier.  I tell parents every day that its not complicated, to follow their gut and that there is no wrong way to babywear. 

Sunday, 25 August 2013

COTW #30 - Wiggleproof Back Carry


by Aline Kelly
 
This carry is aptly named - this is a very secure carry for wigglers, leaners, kickers, and leg straighteners. It has multiple passes and requires a long wrap, usually a 6 or 7. With lots of leg and back reinforcement, your thrashing baby or toddler isn't going anywhere in this carry. 


General instructions:
- Get baby onto your back and bring both tails over your shoulders. Create a good seat. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BDeWlZaDH28
- Bring one side of the wrap under your arm, under baby's knee, spread the wrap across his back and bum, and up and over your opposite shoulder.
- Repeat on the other side.
- Tie under bum or do regular leg passes and tie in front. (the videos illustrate additional finishing options)

Video instructions:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UpxQQqcfRmQ (CosyBabyHappyMommy)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zoTKVJ8HKEw (TheAmanda0224) - with Candy Cane chest belt

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2t1USXvB6TQ (Penny Bond) - knotless "kimono" finish

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9a3iMvGo3RU (Briannaborntobeworn) - 3 tie-offs (Tied under bum, Tied in front, Tied Tibetan)

Thursday, 22 August 2013

Thursday Thought: The Babywearing Alphabet

The babywearing alphabet is an easy one to remember.

It consists of just two letters: C (for spine) and M (for seat).

Photo on the left from Kim Brooks of Breathe In Photography and on the right by Jenna Sparks Photography

When choosing a carrier for a baby under 12 months it is recommended that babywearers look for one that allows the baby to sit in the carrier with a C shaped spine (see left pic). (After 12 months babies start to straighten up and tend to sit more upright so generally you will not see the C shaped spine with a baby past the 12 month mark.)

Looking at how your bub is seated in a carrier is another way to check the carrier's ergonomic standard. Can they sit in an M seat, with their knees higher than their bum? They may be sitting with their legs out (as in right pic) or with their legs inside the carrier if younger than 3-4 months but both positions should offer babe an M seat.

Both the C shaped spine and the M seat are great positions to encourage natural physical development of the spine and hips. All ergonomic carriers should offer these two letters for your baby!




















Wednesday, 21 August 2013

Tuesday, 20 August 2013

Chopping A Wrap?

by Rebecca Hickman

So you found the wrap you want but you want it in a shorter length, or as a ring sling. You have some basic sewing skills and a sewing machine, but aren't quite sure how to proceed. This post will walk you through chopping or splitting a wrap, and re-hemming it into a shorter length. If you plan on reselling, keep in mind that chopping and re-hemming, particularly yourself, can reduce the value.

What size do you need?
In order to get two usable pieces of wrap, you need a minimum of a size 5. A size 5 (~4.1m) or a size 6 (~4.6m) will give you enough to make two ring slings. A size 7 (~5.1m) will be enough to split into two ring slings, a ring sling and a size 2 (2.7m) or 3 (3.1m), or possibly two size 2 wraps if the original wrap is a bit longer than standard. You may or may not get some scrap fabric left over depending on how long of a ring sling you want, and how long the original wrap is. In this tutorial, I'm turning a size 7 Oscha Starry Night Nebula into a size 2. The remainder will be a ring sling, which will be a later tutorial.

Tools
  • Soft tape measure 
  • Pins 
  • Stitch ripper 
  • Removable marker or chalk (optional) 
  • Rotary cutter, mat & rulers (preferred) or scissors & large flat surface 
  • Iron 
  • Hem measuring tool (optional)
  • Sewing machine with new needle 
  • 100% cotton thread that matches thread used in existing hems (I used Mettler silk finish here, but Gutterman is also good and readily available) 
    Matching thread - can you see where it's laying across the wrap? 
Measuring
To start, measure the whole length of your wrap. Even though wraps come in standard sizes (Wrapyourbaby.com has a good list), every wrap will differ slightly – some will be longer than expected. Occasionally they will be shorter. Wrap length may be shorter after it’s been washed, particularly if it’s been dried in the dryer, and they often lengthen after they've been wrapped with repeatedly. Measuring soft tape in hand is a common way to measure a wrap. Basically, you take a soft, flexible sewing measuring tape and run it along one rail to get the length. Measuring both rails isn't a bad idea. The length of the wrap I'm working with is 5.46m, slightly longer than the expected 5.2m. Once you know how long your wrap is, decide how long you want your shorter wrap to be. I decided to cut mine 2.8m from the hemmed edge to leave a little extra length for hemming. Place a pin the desired cutting length from the finished edge.

Cutting Tapers 
The most intimidating part of shortening a wrap for many people is the tapers. Since a wrap is a parallelogram rather than a rectangle, recreating the angled end is trickier than making a straight cut. You want your new hem to have the same angle and length as the one you’re cutting off to maintain the existing wrap shape. Drawing a straight line between the two pins you made in the last step should do this, but I like to check to make sure. One way to do this is to take the hem you’re keeping, twist so the bottom rail is at the top, and then compare how the top and bottom of that hem line up with your pins, and adjust the pins as necessary. The frustrating thing about fabric is that it tends to slip and slide and twist. Once you’re happy with how the taper looks, you can go ahead and cut. To cut the taper, lay your wrap out on your cutting mat. You’ll likely need more than one quilting ruler due to the width of the wrap. Line up the ruler with the pins at either rail, creating a straight line. If you need two rulers, line up the edges so they’re exactly aligned. You can check this by making sure the marks on the ruler also align. Once you’re ready, remove the pins and cut along the edge of the ruler with your rotary cutter. Do not try and cut over the pins! This is a bad, bad idea. I always need a minute and a deep breathe before being able to go ahead and cut. Don’t rush it – once it’s cut, you can’t go back.

If you don’t have a cutting mat and rotary cutter, you’ll need a long enough straight edge and removable marking pen or chalk to draw a straight line from pin to pin. Once you have the line draw, use scissors to cut along the line.

Hemming
So you went ahead and cut your wrap. Yay! Now you've got a raw edge that needs finishing. You can finish it with a Serger or zigzag stitch if you like, but you’ll want that covered anyway, so it’s not necessary. But how big of a hem should you make? To blend in best with your existing hems, measure those. Looking at your cut edge will probably let you peer inside to see how it was originally done. My original wrap had a 3/8” hem, with ¼” turned under to hide the raw edge, so I'm going to do the same. This is where a hem measuring tool comes in handy.
Folding & pinning the hem
You've created a bias edge with your cut and they tend to get warped and stretched out of shape much more easily than a cut going with the grain of the fabric. Lots of pins and careful pressing (not ironing) will help you get the straight, flat, untwisted hem you want. Set your iron to the appropriate setting for your fabric. Many wraps are 100% cotton, which can withstand a higher heat than more delicate fabrics. Linen also does well with high heat, but silk and wool will need a lower temperature. My wrap is 25% wild silk, so I used the silk setting on my iron.

What do I mean by pressing rather than ironing? Lift the iron up when you want to move to a new area and then set it down on the next section, rather than pushing the iron along while still in contact with the fabric. Using my hem measuring tool, I turned over the
raw edge ¼” and pressed along the whole length. Then, I turned it over another 3/8” to hide the raw edge and pressed again, pinning as I went. Getting the corners nice so they don’t stick out past the edges of the wrap is a little tricky. I folded it over a bit more, and cut a tiny bit of the corner out to reduce bulk. If you do this, be careful not to cut too much or it can be hard to have all the raw edges tucked under. Once you've got it all pressed and pinned and you’re happy with your corners, it’s time to sew.

Set up your sewing machine with thread matching your wrap or the thread used on the other edges. Then, go ahead and sew a straight line close to the folded edge of your hem. Just about every sewer has experienced a tangle of threads when they start a seam. To avoid this, either hold onto the ends of your top and bottom threads with some tension as you start to sew, or start sewing on a scrap of fabric and then continue onto your wrap without cutting the threads. Sewing at the corners can be a bit tricky unless you have a heavy duty machine. I found it easier to start a bit past the bulky part and sew to the end, reinforcing at the end by backstitching, then turn the wrap around and sew the other corner from the middle out, reinforcing again.

Moving Middle Markers
When you cut your wrap shorter, the location of the middle also moves. If you want to keep the middle
Marking where markers were
markers in the middle they are fairly simple to move. Using a nice, sharp stitch ripper, very carefully unpick the stitches holding them in their existing place. Restitch along the existing stitches to reseal the hem where you remove the markers. I used a pin to mark where I’d removed the middle markers so I knew where to go back and fix the hem. Locate your new middle. Keep in mind that
Offset middle markers
because the wrap is a parallelogram, the middle of one rail does not line up in a straight line with the middle of the other rail. Fold the wrap in half along one rail and mark the centre with a pin. Repeat with the other rail. Carefully unpick a small amount of the stitching on either side of your pin to open up a space big enough to insert the middle marker tag. Pin the tag underneath the hem and stitch across where the old stitching was, making sure to overlap on either end with existing stitching.

And you’re done! Enjoy your new wrap!

Finished wrap!